![]() ![]() ![]() The Generator is now hanging by the two Safety Pins. Use the two 1/4 by 2 inch bolts (Safety Pins) in this step - Remove one Generator bolt/nut and insert a Safety Pin in the hole. From the top, remove the belt tension bolt.Ĩ. Snug tighten the two bolts again with the generator in this 1 inch up position.ħ. Swing the Generator up about 1 inch, and slide the fan belt(s) off of the pulley. Using 11/16 and 5/8 box wrenches slightly loosen the two bolts and nuts that hold the generator to the bracket.Ħ. Dont' mix the Ground wire with the Field wire next to it when you re-install.ĥ. IMPORTANT: Mark the ground wire (furthest to the front) with a piece of tape. Using two 3/8 small ignition wrenches, hold the bottom nut of each of the 3 generator stud wires and remove the top nuts. From the top, using a 9/16 wrench, loosen the bolt in front on the generator that holds the belt tension until you can feel the lock nut and washer spin free.Ĥ. Disconect the Positive lead on the battery.Ģ. The day before - use PB Blaster, on the two bolts and nuts holding the generator to the bracket, and the bolt that holds the belt tension. The key to an easier AND safer removal was that I used two 1/4 by 2 inch bolts as "Saftey Pins" during the removal. I removed the Generator today in about 20 minutes. So, at low engine RPM, in drive, at stop lights, the Generator Voltage output will normally fall below Battery Voltage at the Ignition Switch - and the bulb goes on - which is normal.Ī light that stays on constantly means low generator voltage output directly from the generator. (example: +12V at Ignition Switch to +11V at ARM Terminal = Bulb lights up). If the Generator puts out less than +12V, because of low RPM or loose belt, then the bulb will glow because there is less voltage on the ARM terminal and partially grounds the bulb again. ![]() The bulb is in a constant state of "Tug-O-War" between the Ignition Switch +12V and the ARM terminal +12V. Now the bulb sees +12V from the Ignition switch, and +12V from the ARM terminal at the regulator. When the engine is started, the ARM terminal receives +12V from the generator. Summary: The bulb goes on because it gets +12V from the ignition switch, and it gets partial ground (-) from the ARM terminal at the regulator. When the ignition key is turned on, but not started, the bulb gets power from the ignition switch, and is receiving a partial ground at the ARM terminal on the regulator. The other lead goes to the Armature (ARM) terminal at the regulator (smaller of the two yellow wires). One lead goes to the "hot" side of the ignition switch, where it get +12V. I'm thinking that Ford should have made the driver seat "fully reclining", because I've spent more time laying down under the car than in the sitting position. The temperature in Texas is 95 degrees, which means working in the early AM only. I soaked all of the bolts with PB Blaster and have them loosened. ![]() I did the final voltage reading directly from the ARM stud on the generator to ground - I got 2.5 volts - so it's time to drop the generator. I called them this AM and they gave me a quote of between $60 to $100 to rebuild mine - AND they said - "Bring your regulator so that we can tune it to your generator after we rebuild it". in town, and he highly recommended a shop that has done generator rebuilds for the club. P/S has 1 belt going around the Harmonic Balancer pulley. Generator has a 2 slot pulley with 2 belts going around the Harmonic Balancer (with 3 slot pulley) and then around the Fan/WaterPump (with 3 slot pulley).Ī/C has 1 belt going around the Fan/water Pump pulley. ![]()
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